Tuesday, July 2, 2013

Day 77, July 2 - 1,000 Miles on Foot

Rancheria Creek, Mile 981 to MILE 1000!!

Well, I can't believe I made the next huge milestone. A few reflections on today, and the first 1,000 miles... 

Today was harder than expected, which meant the day mentally kicked my butt. I've learned that, while hiking, some of the highest highs come from successfully completing a challenging day more easily than expected, and some of the lowest lows come from an unanticipated struggle on what was supposed to be an easy day. A climb that was listed in my maps as only 400 feet (a walk in the park) was actually straight up over 1,000 feet in less than a mile - that's SUPER steep in the PCT world! That climb began only a few miles in, so it didn't set the tone for a good day when I was sobbing at the top of the surprise climb. To add insult to injury, it was SO HOT. We lingered in camp in the am with KingStreet (KS), Rocky, and TRex - enjoying coffee, breakfast, and companionship before what was expected to be an easy day. Really wished I'd gotten moving sooner after the sweltering heat!

As the miles dragged on, the sky darkened and we anticipated another afternoon thunderstorm - I was happy to have at least completed the climb and descended from the exposed granite before the dark clouds materialized into an electric storm. Slosh and I hiked on and soon heard familiar voices yelling our names - Rocky, TRex, and KS had taken shelter for lunch away from the building clouds under the eaves of a cabin right off the trail in the middle of the wilderness. After enjoying lunch and socializing for a bit, we determined the storm wasn't going to materialize, and made the decision to charge toward mile 1,000. My heels are pretty torn up right now, and my feet have been constantly wet the last few weeks due to stream crossings - the last few miles were absolutely brutal. At long last, I crossed the 1,000 mile marker! The campsite we're all at is awesome and right on the river (although absolutely overrun with mosquitoes...) We had an awesome bonfire before hopping in bed.

ONE THOUSAND MILES BY FOOT: I feel stronger than I have in a very long time, and I feel empowered! I'm frequently struck by how hard this STILL is (today=good example!), and everyday I still hope for the moment when all this seems to come easily. I'm so happy to have great friends out here, and I'm so much happier when we all get to hike together. It's funny to think back on my biggest fear - that I wouldn't make any friends. I've made some awesome friends - people who I click with and have felt close to since the moment I met (or re-met, in the case of Rocky!) - but I also have learned to enjoy my alone and quiet time more than expected. That's pretty refreshing. I'm more in touch with nature and the world around me - I know when the moon waxes and wanes these days! Today was one of those days I was ready to have HAD the experience but wasn't enjoying HAVING it, but those days have become far more scarce. I've never yet actually gotten close to giving up though...as LT pointed out in one of our early conversations, I'm far too stubborn to ever turn around or give up; I've already told too many people I'm doing this! Still, the thought of our sweet apartment in Oakland and a fully furnished bedroom/living room/kitchen always sounds pretty alluring. We've gotten to the point where, as of tonight, we all sat around camp talking about reaching the Canadian border together, and what that would be like. That will be so crazy! I've given far less consideration to "Post-PCT Life" than expected, but I feel pretty happy just living in the now...for now. I know that's not necessarily the most responsible long term plan, but it's nice to just enjoy life as it comes. Mostly, tonight, I am exhausted and in need of a good night's rest. Amigos arrive tomorrow - must be on A game!

Monday, July 1, 2013

Days 73-76, June 28-July 1 - My Dinner at the Ahwahnee & Reunions at Long Last

Lyell Footbridge in Yosemite Mile 932 to Tuolumne Meadows Mile 942, Day 0, to Trailside Mile 958 to Rancheria Campground Mile 958

The 10 miles to Tuolumne on Friday morning were fairly expectedly longer than expected. I've come to learn that 10 miles will seem like nothing if you're close to town, but those miles tend to drag so much longer than the average 10 miles! Also, sometimes the flat and easy seems to drag on forever. We made it to the store and Post Office around 11:30 and bumped into some old friends - Buff, Happy Hour, Squeaks, Grande Burrito, and a few others. We bought a pint of ice cream and a 6 pack of beer to share among the 3 of us and toasted Jon's successful trip from Mammoth, picked up mail, then quickly headed out to Yosemite Valley for our planned meetup with Gail, Brett's Mom. I had all kinds of goodies waiting for me in the mail! Shya and Renee sent a fabulous birthday package complete with baked goods, temporary tattoos, and backpack flair, my uncle sent a really great card, and my former coworker the hilarious Steve sent the 3rd of a number of letters to me. What a treat! They made my day.

Gail and Jon treated us to dinner in the dining room at the Ahwahnee Hotel - so amazing and delicious! The dining room looks like the great hall from the Harry Potter movies, it was so grandiose and majestic! They brought a few of our bottles of Ridge from home and we enjoyed them with our various plates of pork, steak, or lamb. I almost forgot what foodies we are at home! These days a fancy dinner consists of something you have to actually SIMMER in boiling water before letting it sit and digging in.  At the end of the meal, they brought birthday cupcakes out for Jon and I, and Brett ordered the "red velvet cake for 2". For 2 was no joke! The slice was probably a foot tall and wider than his head - even I was a little surprised he managed to finish the whole thing on his own!

The time went too fast, and the next thing I knew it was time to check out - of course no laundry was done and I'd only completed a fraction of my correspondence, chores, etc. There's never enough time in towns! Jon and Gail headed back home and Brett and I hit up the market in the valley to tackle resupply until Echo Lake, and then hopped on the bus back to Tuolumne Meadows. As we got on the bus, who should shout out our trail names but the one and only Sour Cream?! He had planned to meet his Dad in Yosemite but his Mom also flew out to surprise him and hike with him as well, so we had the pleasure of getting to know both of them. It was so great and refreshing to see Sour Cream after so much time, and fun to catch up on his time in the Sierra. As the bus pulled into Tuolumne I looked out the window to see none other than Rocky and T-Rex also! Finally seeing our friends again is such a game changer!

Our plan was to hit the trail right away, but of course that wasn't about to happen after catching up with so many friends. Brett and I decided to stay at the Tuolumne Lodge for a good night's rest in one of their tent cabins. Hit the trail the following morning and moved slowly after realizing that we drank beer the previous night but never bothered with dinner. It was a rough day, and our extended relaxing ever since we arrived in Mammoth took its toll. We caught up to Rocky, TRex and KingStrett the next day and hiked with them in the afternoon - it's sooo good to be with trail friends again! And home friends get here in just 2 days!

Thursday, June 27, 2013

Day 72, June 27 - Why I Hike

Garnet Lake to Yosemite Mile 932

Jon probably got the closest taste of true thru-hiker life today - over 11 miles! The hiking was fun, the scenery was great, and we crossed a major pass (Donohue) and some pretty good fords. At the end of the day, Jon said he has a new appreciation for what we're doing but has no clue why we're doing it.

I thought a lot about the "why" question - weirdly enough, not many people asked it! I suppose in a place like the Bay Area, it doesn't come as a HUGE surprise when someone up and quits their job in favor of going and living and hiking in the backcountry for six months, but I imagine many people did silently wonder what the h I was doing throwing away a good job and comfortable life to essentially become a hobo. It's hard to explain, but I think for me, a lot of it was because it was hard. I wanted to put myself up for a real challenge, and I threw myself in before I could second guess myself enough to convince myself I'd never be able to do it. I wanted a goal to strive for, and I wanted an achievement to call my own. Obviously, also because it's beautiful and scenic and a wildly wild adventure. But also because I want to push myself to new limits, and redefine what I'm physically capable of. But then you get out here and that end goal becomes so remote and far away and not at all what it's all about - because it's more about the day to day; the work, the joys, the tears and struggles. And also about getting to that next milestone, whatever it may be: a town, a 100 mile mark, a 50 mile mark, a nice place to set up the tent at the end of the day - whatever it may be.

Knowing that I can survive (and even sometimes as of late, thrive) on my own out here is empowering, and that is a really awesome feeling! Maybe a feeling I've denied or been unable to feel in a while. The past few days have reminded me of just how far I've come. From hardly being able to even filter my own water to hiking completely comfortably on my own - setting up tents, knowing how, where, and why to dig a hole, to skipping over rocks in a river, to just about anything else...including climbing a 12,000 foot pass and not breathing heavy at the top. The changes and progress have been slow and perhaps often unnoticeable, but I think this crazy trip may have more why - more purpose - than I can even fathom.

Wednesday, June 26, 2013

Day 71, June 26 - Hiking without Packs: Remarkably Comfortable

JMT Riverside to Garnet Lake

We all decided to near0 at our campsite in favor of taking a few day hikes around the area and making our area the basecamp - hiking without packs was Ahhhhhmaze-ing. I forgot how easy it is to walk without 35 lbs on your back!

Hiked up to Ediza Lake where Brett attempted some fishing, then we hiked further up to Iceburg Lake - a really fun hike/scramble up from Ediza through a few remaining snowfields and boulder scrambles. Turns out the lake is named Iceburg for a reason - about 40% of it was still covered in a giant iceburg! Pretty neat. We found a huge piece of granite to sit and enjoy lunch, and also ate the last of the birthday pie my Dad bought for my birthday and I'd carried in to relish in the backcountry. It was also Jon's birthday, so it was a joint birthday apple pie! Yumm.

We got back to camp later and packed up for our short hike to Garnet Lake, which is incredibly scenic. We snagged the last remaining campsite, cooked dinner, and mused on the fact that our little area looked like it came straight from an REI brochure, then called it a night.

All in all, Jon said he had a great 68th birthday, but that this trip has quite literally aged him! Not too many people spend their 68th birthday camped in the backcountry at an alpine lake 10,000 feet high - pretty impressive.

Tuesday, June 25, 2013

Day 70, June 25 - All Over the Mammoth Area Map

Reds Meadow to Agnew Meadow to JMT Riverside

Jon is hiking with us until Mammoth, and we decided to hike a little bit of a variation of the official trail. The storm from yesterday was still dropping a little rain this morning, and we decided to take a 4-5 mile day hike up to Rainbow Falls and Devil's Postpile, which Brett had never seen. For some reason, I'd never been to the top of Devil's Postpile, even though I've been there a number of times - it was pretty neat to see the hexagonal shape of the granite poles all locked together! By the time we got back to our campsite, the clouds began to part and we had actual hope of our gear drying out.

We took a little detour and then hiked up from Agnew Meadows - a very scenic and pretty section and then traversed a river path, right up the side of a waterfall (similar to the Mist Trail, but fewer people!) We passed by Shadow Lake (more of the same: gorgeous) then rejoined the JMT and camped at a great spot next to the river. Unfortunately, the mosquitos also seemed to love our campsite, and we spent the afternoon trying to avoid the little buggers. Hopefully that won't continue -they could make someone go crazy in no time.

I was still in a little bit of a post-Mammoth funk, but hoped after a few days on the trail that would go away on its own. Towns are great but too easy to get sucked into, especially when some of your favorite people are there too!

Monday, June 24, 2013

Days 65-69, June 20-24 - Mammoth Happiness!

Mile 889 to Reds Meadow, into Mammoth!

Even though there were still 17 miles into Reds Meadow (turn off for Mammoth), the morning flew by and before I knew it I was rounding a corner and seeing the 900 mile marker on the ground! What fun. We all took some pictures and then hurried on our way, and made it to Red's Meadow by 1:30 in afternoon. We were lucky to get a ride out of Red's Meadow to the ski resort from a family from Louisiana vacationing in Mammoth. From there, we got on the free biker shuttle to downtown and then hopped on the trolley to the Post Office and then for a slice of pizza with Tortuga. Brett and I decided to go grocery shopping and then get a cab to the house we'd rented with our friends - when we arrived, I could hardly believe where we were staying! The home was giant and luxurious - a pool table, sound system, chef's kitchen, beautiful bedrooms, and a hot tub on the back deck. What more could a couple of dirty thru-hikers ask for? Answer - hot water! The hot water heater had been set to vacation mode, so even after arriving in this multi-million dollar home, we couldn't take showers for the first few hours! How ironic. Instead, we decided to order a pizza and start relaxing.

Slowly throughout the evening, people started arriving - beginning with Brock, Jess and Fran's former rooommate, who was only staying with us the first night. Next, Joanna and Jason, who I haven't seen in ten years, showed up and it was so great to start reconnecting with them! Lastly, Mandi, Mad and Matt arrived and the weekend officially started! I think it's the longest Madison and I have gone without seeing each other since we moved away from Portland in 2008 - me to SF and her to LA - since she moved to the city we see each other far more frequently than once every two months! I was so excited for the long weekend to come, and we also had Mandi's graduation from Santa Clara to celebrate. We stayed up until 4am and then spent the entire next day relaxing at the house. I woke up Friday morning to the sounds of Lai and Fran who had come from the bridal house with Jackie, Steve, and another friend to say hi and catch up. A little later, Peter, Ryan, Julia, and Ryan's gf arrived from LA. The weather was awesome and it was a perfect day. Jess and BQ hosted a party at their bridal house after the rehearsal dinner on Friday night and we all headed over after bbqing, and I got to see so many other friendly faces before the wedding, including Devon, Caitlin and Brett who had gotten to town that day!

Saturday was more of the same - relaxing at the house - exactly what I'd hoped to do the entire time in Mammoth. The wedding was beautiful and the reception was a ton of fun - it was a great wedding! We all had a blast dancing the night away, and then the party continued once we were back to the house - it was so much fun to hang out with Peter too - I haven't seen him in years and we got to catch up, but it made for another late night. A 3am bedtime again...these are not hours I've become accustomed to on the trail!

Sunday was my birthday, and I awoke to the surprise of finding out my Dad flew from Michigan to surprise me and spend the day with me! We went to say goodbye to everyone at the bridal house and then spent the day running the town errands Brett and I never got around to the whole time we were in Mammoth. We also picked up Brett's Dad Jon who arrived in Mammoth earlier than expected, and the four of us went to a late lunch together. My Dad insisted on buying me a new sleeping pad for my bday after learning of my troubles sleeping - how could I say no? After my Dad left to head back home, we went for drinks at Grumpy's across the street from the hotel and caught up with Lai and Johnny who also stayed an extra day. Our trail friend Lunchbox also joined and after he learned it was my birthday was so sweet and ordered a bunch of birthday shots for the table. The night was fun, and it was a crazy day to see my Dad, Brett's Dad, trail friends, and home friends all in one place.

I had hoped to stay in Mammoth one more day, but Jon was ready to hit the trail after traveling to meet us, so we checked out of the hotel the next morning and crossed our fingers that the forecast storm wouldn't dump too much on us before we left. One more thing to do before we left though - Mad had arranged for us to get massages at the local salon for my birthday! I can't imagine a better gift...it was the best hour maybe EVER in my entire life. I REALLY didn't want to hike after that amazing massage! Lai and I also had the chance to get lunch together, which I was so thankful for because I felt like I'd hardly had any time to really talk with her. We had a nice lunch and ordered about 1 of everything on the menu.

I very reluctantly made my way back to the trail. Seeing friends was such a blessing, but it made returning to the trail pretty difficult. I was so tempted to hop in someone's car back to the Bay Area! I'm finally loving it out here on the trail, but I still miss my life at home, and the weekend in Mammoth was a great reminder of just how awesome the people in my life at home are. I'm going to finish this trail, but I'm already excited to get back home.

We only camped at the Red's Meadow campground, which made the transition easier. I also had some cell service and was able to catch up with Jen, who had sent me the most amazing birthday care package ever! We spent the evening at the campground and took a quick hike over to the resort, and on our way saw our first bears of the trail! They were probably about 20 yards away just munching on some plants in a meadow, and couldn't have cared less about us - pretty cool!

Wednesday, June 19, 2013

Days 63-64, June 18-19 - Wrapping Up the High Sierra

Mile 854 to Large Campsite on Ridge with Fire Pit Mile 873, to Campsite Near River Mile 889

We got an alpine (read: late) start and had a big climb looming. As I was on my way up, I turned a corner and a hiker on his way down pulled over to let me pass. When I did, he said "Wow, you look strong!" Um...best compliment from a stranger ever! Made my day, especially because I wasn't FEELING particularly strong at the time.

Topped Selden Pass in the afternoon and had lunch on top which was fun. Mosquitos ate me alive as I descended, and Brett's shins started bothering him. Starting on the descent from Muir Pass, his shins started hurting and he is developing painful shin splints.

We forded Mono Creek in the afternoon, which in heavy snow years can be a pretty challenging river crossing. Once again, I thanked my lucky stars for the low snow year - the crossing was a little deep (almost up to my thighs), but nothing too dangerous or swift moving. Just a minor pucker factor! We made it halfway up a climb and found a beautiful campsite to spend the evening.

Spent the following morning with Storytime as he joined us after he'd gotten started. We all talked about our plans for Mammoth and made tentative plans to get together in town. After finally getting on the trail, Brett's shin splints started really acting up - I've never seen him move so slowly. Unfortunately, we had no option but to continue on at that point - there were no other options to get off the trail sooner than Mammoth. I wished we'd had one extra day built into our plan - I was worried this was an overuse injury that could potentially turn into a stress fracture, and I was glad we'd have so much time off the trail to recover in Mammoth. Silver Pass took absolutely forever to summit, but it was gorgeous from the top - some really great views.

This is the last night in a tent for a while - so excited for an actual bed!